MIREILLE'S MUSINGS: Best Restaurant Meal of the Summer

A summer without a visit to our favorite restaurant in Provence and maybe France—two-star “Alexandre” in Garrons near Nîmes—kept us longing for a great experience. We’ve had wonderful meals at Oustau de Baumanière in Les Baux, the other two-star of the region, but this year the winner was a one-star (well we think it’s a two) that gave us delicious “frissons.”

Wout and Suzy Bru are an amazing couple. Both come from Belgium and met while working at Oustau in Les Baux, fell in love both with each other and Provence, and after having a small bistro for years, moved in 2009 to set up outside a tiny village on the road “Route d’Orgon” between St Remy and Cavaillon. It’s a great work in progress where passion, energy, hard work and “bienveillance” make it such a warm place to visit. Foreigners in Provence! They can teach us a lot and do.

They offer a combination of a chic and authentic hotel/restaurant, and the food keeps getting better and better. If you love king crab or cochon (pig), two of their signature dishes, you will be amazed with the subtle balance. The menu includes several signature dishes and new creations, and both lists are a tough choice for a meal. Try to visit with friends so you can taste them all. Having been there a few times and having introduced many visitors to their cuisine, we attest to a weakness for their fish dishes, whether red mullet, razor clams, john dory or turbot, all accompanied by the delicious vegetables of Provence, often in a confit form that adds to the savor of the fish. If you like meat, try the pigeon or beef. Wout Bru’s interpretation stands out. Desserts follow the season and are a must to end any meal, even if you share one for the table. The breads, all made on the premises, are sensational (and the tomato bread is a hit), and the various amuse and mignardises are always a test to your taste buds. A great symphony.

Run there if you can: www.chezbru.com